Stay Signed In
Do you want to access your site more quickly on this computer? Check this box, and your username and password will be remembered for two weeks. Click logout to turn this off.
Stay Safe
Do not check this box if you are using a public computer. You don't want anyone seeing your personal info or messing with your site.
I've done it again!
I really cannot help myself when I see these lovely old boats for sale on E-bay. I got this one, a 30 inch (900mm) Sea Commander from a very nice family down in Sussex, for just under thirty quid. It was probably built in around 1965, by the man's father and has been sitting in the loft for a while.
The quality of build is really superb - and it puts a lot of my 'bodging' to shame. So I am going to make the effort to do things tidily - not just rush to get it working. It looks like it has be made by an engineer.
The Sea Commander is the baby brother (or sister - judging by the name printed on the boat) to the 4 ft Sea Queen - which I also have. The shap-e is really nice, slightly more subtle than the larger Sea Queen.
I'm going to keep a photograhic record of fixing this boat up. The aim is to use / modify bits & peices luking in the shed, rather than buy loads of things.
Below : The original E-bay pictures - the 'before'
I've started work in ernest. I had an spare, old OS 30 marine engine knocking around (originally bought as a spare for the little crash tender. The wooden engine mounts that came with the boat were built really well - and were the perfect angle. Made out of mahogony, or some otherc hard wood they are just the job and were installed with self tapping bolts. The thick brass engine mounting plate, again very well made, was also a perfect fit - requiring only 4 extra holes to be drilled to fit my engine. The boat came without a prop shaft - although the brass tube was there. Luckily I had just the item in my 'bits box' - a 5/32" (near enough 4mm) which when cut down and joined with a raboesch universal joint with a 1/4" UNF threaded insert at one end and a plain 4mm one at the other, was just the job.
Below : Even the stand is a work of art!
Above : Custom exhaust system made from standard brass tube, soldered together and joined using gas fitter type copper right angle peices. I wanted to keep the original hole at the back - hence the convoluted route.
I am pleased with the final result - it is reasonably quiet.
Below : top modelling tip. The z-bender from Irvine. Simply push the little spike on the bottom of the tool into the required hole in your servo arm, open the jaws, push in the control wire, squeeze - and you have a perfectly aligned rod with a bend that can be pushed into the horn. Takes seconds & works every time - brilliant! And you don't even need to take the rod out of the model or disconnect the other end. These are about £15 - not cheap - but worth every penny.
Below, cusom made radio box for the back of the boat. Will house the rudder servo, battery, mini receiver and on-off-charge switch. This and other wooden bits being spray painted before installation.
Float test in the bath......
.....5 minutes OK......
......10 minutes - still dry .....
...... 15 minutes - oh dear a little puddle starting to form.
Will try to fix using expoxy resin on the inside and outside & then re-seal the boat with varnish.
Below: little details like these bollards - £1.75 on e-bay - cover up some unsightly holes and improve the appearance.